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it essentially means they’re paving the way for an all-singing,cheap tiger woods golf shoes, and this is by way of an unwavering vision in terms of the look they market.
“The styling has always been a big big thing — how we mix and match different types of brands and try to present it the Tr?s Bien way” said store co-founder Hannes Hogeman last year It’s that unique identity in part that has garnered them such a huge fan base Through careful curation and the creation of bespoke materials like lookbooks not only does their average customer know exactly what to expect when they visit their site but theyget to feel like they are part of something exclusive In general the luxury customer doesn’t like to feel they are one of thousands feeding into some huge mass-market corporate entity – even if they are ultimately doing exactly that The illusion of independence is something that’s coveted in the fashion world because it feeds into a sense of exclusivity It’s also worth considering how such ventures will affect the brands themselves Will the fashion houses of Paris London New York and Milan with their rich prevailing narratives become undistinguishable amid an identikit homogenous presentation Sites like LYST and Farfetch are already eroding this although these sites are essentially product aggregators and the latter still makes some effort to inform about which physical stores the goods come from The less said about LYST’s standards of presentation however the better The powerful brand identities of so many of fashion’s top labels are what help them remain creative and individual If every season’s collection is laid out in the same uniform manner these identities will become dulled by a one-size-fits-all system that presents fashion as asingle entity rather than a vast galaxy made up of many smaller constellations
Such a dilemma is something a site like MR PORTER is all too aware of Since their recent merger with e-commerce giant Yoox they’ve been keen to offset the notion of facelessness by rehiring their one-time head of content Jeremy Langmead The English fashion writer was at the helm from the company’s foundation in 2011 and until 2014 helped fashion a unique vision for the company through a range of well-considered editorial content This sort of fleshed-out content-driven approach is one that any huge e-commerce venture must consider if it wants to be seen as something more desirable than a big digital warehouse and despite MR PORTER’s broad list of brands its stylistic scope is just about narrow enough for them to present a coherent vision to the consumer Whether that can be maintained in future however depends on how much broader they wish to go An e-commerce site that takes in all of fashion’s most exclusive brands –from COMME des GARONS to Cavalli –is a tall order by any standards While major department stores like Barney’s or Selfridges do indeed manage to span such a range they do so backed by the prestige of their well-established bricks and mortar presence which is where their character is built While the idea of putting price and convenience at the forefront of a business offering might seem on the face of it to be a good idea the notion of an “Amazon of high-end fashion” ignores the fact that luxury fashion is about more than the clothing itself It is a delicate balance that relies on an appreciation of brand exclusivity and niche appeal and the clumsy erosion of both those factors risksdiluting the results right across the board
Words by Calum Gordon for Highsnobiety The views and opinions expressed in this piece are those of the author and do not necessarily reflect the position of Highsnobiety as a whole To read more stories like this.
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